There are few brands that illicit divisive opinions quite as effectively as Hublot. The watches are big, expensive, aggressively designed, overwhelming, and unmistakable. Some, like Worn & Wound’s Zach Kazan, find themselves inexplicably drawn toward the boldness of Hublot, while others find the brand’s chosen path slightly more challenging. Whether you love or hate Hublot, there’s no denying that they have been remarkably consistent in their approach, even if the watches have evolved dramatically over the years.
I find myself falling somewhere in between the two camps, appreciating the willingness to experiment and technical expertise Hublot demonstrates, even on the occasions I find myself unconvinced by their chosen aesthetic. But I always take notice of their big swings, and the release of the latest piece from the Hublot Masterpiece (or MP) collection is undoubtedly a big swing.
Since the inaugural release way back in 2011, the MP collection has served as a platform for Hublot to push the bounds of their technical watchmaking, and it has resulted in some awesome watches over the years. Notable examples that spring to mind are the MP-05 LaFerrari, with its 50-day power reserve and a winding mechanism that required an included power drill to operate, and the MP-08 Antikythera SunMoon, which was inspired by the same ancient device as the MacGuffin in the latest Indiana Jones movie.
Looking back at previous MP releases, there can be no doubt that this latest addition to the MP lineup, the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium, lives up to the name. The MP-10 is all about the movement because, in practice, there isn’t really a dial. Rather, the movement and the dial have been fused by a rather impressive movement architecture.
There are no hands or markers to be found here. Instead, the time and power reserve are read off rotating cylinders. The time is read top to bottom, with hours and minutes taking pride of place at the top of the dial, and the seconds readout being mounted directly to the tourbillon cage found at the traditional six o’clock position (more on that in a minute). In between the two, we find the power reserve indicator, which reads off a cylinder mounted co-axially with the hours and minutes above it.
The tourbillon is mounted at a 35º angle at the base of the watch, which in and of itself would be worthy of discussion. Mounting a tourbillon at an odd angle is no simple thing and places Hublot squarely in the company of brands like Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey.
Why mount a tourbillon at 35º? If a tourbillon is mounted vertically — that is, parallel to the plane of a dial as on a typical tourbillon watch — it experiences a theoretical rate deviation as the watch moves between its two most common orientations, lying flat on a surface, or hanging perpendicular to the floor on your wrist. By offsetting the tourbillon angle within the case, it means the tourbillon itself never finds itself in either extreme position, reducing the rate variability. Basically, the 35º tourbillon is an extraordinary solution to solve a problem slightly more effectively.
The core section of the movement is framed on either side by a unique winding system powered by a linear weight system. Basically, on either side of the watch sits a white gold weight mounted on a vertical axis. As you move your wrist, the weights will shoot along this axis, winding the watch as they move in either direction.
To prevent the weights from bashing around in the case as they slide up and down in the case, Hublot has developed a shock absorber system to help control the movement of the weights. Hublot is not the first brand to create a linear axis winding weight – the Corum Golden Bridge Automatic springs to mind as an example – but the use of this type of shock absorber system is, as far as I can remember, unique to Hublot and an impressive improvement on the concept.
All of this is contained in a shiny micro blasted titanium and sapphire case reminiscent of the shape of what you’d store your AirPods in, with a generally rectangular shape, but plenty of rounded edges and sides to go around. A large crown at the twelve o’clock position allows hand-winding of the HUB9013 movement, while a smaller pop-out recessed crown on the caseback allows the wearer to set the time. The watch is held on the wrist by a substantial and impressive integrated rubber strap held in place by Hublot’s signature H-headed screws.
Overall, the MB-10 offers wearers a different take on what a Hublot can be, and, in that way, it more than lives up to the Masterpiece name. Produced in a limited edition of only 50 pieces, and priced at 250,000 CHF, the MP-10 is slightly outside Worn & Wound’s typical purview, but the genuine sense of excited creativity that must have gone into this watch feels right at home. Hublot
