For Watches & Wonders 2024, Bell & Ross is bringing ceramic somewhere it’s never gone before — the BR 05 collection of integrated bracelet sports watches — with a trio of black ceramic options with matching black ceramic bracelets.
When Bell & Ross introduced the BR 05 five years ago, it seemed like a somewhat esoteric, slightly fringe addition to the brand’s offerings. I remember feeling like it was a watch made more to check a box than anything else. But in the last half-decade, the BR 05 has, increasingly and slowly, become a major pillar of the Bell & Ross catalog and earned fans left and right.
These additions also feel a little like checking a box — but in the best way. Ceramic has long been a core material for Bell & Ross, with many of its iconic and recognizable square-cased cockpit instruments, like the BR 03-94 Multimeter, making use of the material. So it was only a matter of time before we saw the distinctive material make its way to the BR 05.
The new BR 05 ceramic trio are, mostly, the same watches we’ve seen over the last few years, but there are some small, but significant, differences between the ceramic and steel versions (besides the material). The BR 05 Black Ceramic models are 1mm wider than their steel counterparts, measuring in at 41mm. The BR 05 Black Ceramic is still thin, measuring in at 11.2mm, but again, it is a slight increase when compared to the steel option (which is a svelte 10.5mm).
Per Bell & Ross, these changes in dimension were made to counteract the slimming effect of black. By ever-so-slightly increasing the watch’s dimensions, the stealthy BR 05 Black Ceramic should maintain the same wrist presence as the more eye-catching steel alternatives.
Besides the new dimensions, the other difference to mention is the power reserve. Previously released steel BR 05s have used the Bell & Ross Caliber 321 (with solid dials) and skeletonized Bell & Ross Caliber 322 (with translucent dials) movements based on the Sellita SW300 and have had a stated power reserve of 38 hours. These new releases use the Bell & Ross Calibers 321-1 and 322-1 and seem to offer an extended power reserve of 54 hours — not groundbreaking by any means, but certainly an improvement.
As I’ve mentioned briefly already, this release is three distinct releases; two of which are permanent additions to the core collection. The BR 05 Black Ceramic and BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic (the two non-limited releases) both feature rhodium-plated hands, a multi-finish black ceramic case, and the option of either a black ceramic integrated bracelet with brushed H-links and polished intermediary links or a rubber strap. The former model is kitted out with a black sunburst dial, while the Skeleton Black Ceramic model has a tinted transparent dial, showing off the rhodium-plated skeletonized movement beneath the dial. Each uses white lume.
The third addition is the limited edition BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic. This watch drops the multiple finishing techniques and the option of a rubber strap in favor of a matte sandblasted black ceramic case and bracelet. The watch comes equipped with a black smoked sapphire crystal dial and has an altogether more toolish look than the two permanent fixtures, slightly bridging the gap between Bell & Ross’s “Urban” collection and their longstanding line of “Instrument” watches. Production of this model is limited to 500 pieces.
All three models are available now, with the BR 05 Black Ceramic priced at $7,500, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic priced at $9,700, and the 500-piece limited edition BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic priced at $9,400. Bell & Ross
