What We Know

The Grand Seiko First (or, in layman's terms, the first Grand Seiko watch), came out in 1960 and has since served as the foundation upon which the entire brand is built. Today, for Watches & Wonders 2024, GS is returning to the first GS by way of a special recreation in rose gold.

This particular Grand Seiko First features the aforementioned rose gold case, but also showcases the brand's penchant for gorgeous dial work. Here we have a navy blue dial with a shimmering effect meant to evoke the starry night sky.

Despite the inherent vintage design (this is a recreation after all) the use of a navy blue leather strap brings a bit of modern flare to the package. It will also come with a more vintage-leaning brown leather strap.

Inside beats the manual-winding caliber 9S64 with 72 hours of power reserve. With this movement, as the mainspring unwinds, its torque diminishes gradually to maximize accuracy. This 38mm rose gold, blue dial Grand Seiko First will be limited to 50 pieces and cost $26,500.

What We Think

Today we see two completely different sides from Grand Seiko from the intensely modern by way of the Kodo to this faithfully constructed vintage recreation. I think it is important for Grand Seiko to continue relying on his back catalog because it helps entrench the brand in the annals of horology.

What I especially appreciate here is the decision not to veer too far in the vintage direction. We get the old school Grand Seiko typography, the Diashock text, and the case proportions, sure. But in addition to that, GS flexed its muscles in a seemingly simple but visually stunning navy blue dial that – to borrow from Taylor Swift – shimmers.

A watch like this honestly has to be a limited edition so I take no umbrage with that and I'm honestly looking forward to checking this one out at the show this week.

The Basics

Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Grand Seiko First

Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 10.9mm
Case Material: 18k Rose Gold
Dial Color: Navy blue
Indexes: Applied
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Blue and brown leather strap

The Movement

Caliber: Caliber 9S64
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Manual

Pricing & Availability

Price: $26,500
Availability: Immediately
Limited Edition: Yes, 50 piece

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The Hodinkee Shop is an authorized retailer of Grand Seiko watches. For more on the Grand Seiko First, visit Grand Seiko online.