Citizen- it’s a brand name loaded with connotations for many enthusiasts. For me, before I knew that watches were something you could be enthusiastic about, it represented a significant step up from the Casios and Fossils I wore. It was the ubiquitous display case filled with somewhat flashy and easily recognizable watches that I was drawn to when visiting the mall as a teenager, yet was completely out of reach for my weekend job at Taco Bell budget. Though phrases like “wrist presence” and “over engineered” weren’t in my high school vocabulary, if I asked my past self what drew me to these often-oversized watches, I’d probably find a less articulate way to describe these characteristics.

These days, as a budget conscious enthusiast with thankfully a bit more cash than my Taco Bell days, my views on the brand have evolved. I now associate it with attainable prices that punch above their price point and a versatile and extensive catalog that has been embraced by general consumers and enthusiasts alike. In a landscape where many brands are moving up market and MSRPs are seemingly tracking egg prices, it’s easy to see why Citizen has become the default choice for many collectors seeking value driven iconic designs in the sub $1000 (and often considerably less) category.

While some Citizen models such as the Promaster line of dive watches and the integrated bracelet Tsuyosa have been accepted with open hearts and empty wrists in enthusiast circles, others with more aggressive diameters have simply sized themselves out. But I suspect that is about to change with the newly shrunk collection of 40mm Promaster Navihawks. Available in silver, green and a copper-leaning salmon and brimming with functionality, the midsize Promaster Navihawk has all the markings of a watch you would expect to see proudly worn at your next RedBar event.

The Watch

Typically I start a review with the physical description of a watch, such as the case or dial. Afterall, it’s what determines how a watch looks and feels on the wrist, two key drivers of purchasing decisions. But after test driving the new Navihawk, it quickly became clear that its vast capabilities are the primary reason to consider this new Promaster over countless similarly priced alternative tool watches. So, let’s cover a few of those before diving into the equally impressive package they come in. At its core, the Navihawk is an aviation watch with every complication you could hope for. Want a 1/5 second chronograph capable of measuring up to 60 minutes? It’s got that. How about a date, 12/24 hour subdial and a slide-rule bezel? No problem. Built for land, sea and sky, the Navihawk is perfectly capable of helping you time a flawless cup of coffee and then converting units while you fly to your favorite scuba diving destination. Or, more realistically,  providing daydream inspiration as you take the occasional worry-free dip in a pool.

All of this functionality is protected by a 40mm case that features 200 meters of water resistance and is topped off with a sapphire crystal.  The bold yet wearable (thanks to a compact 44.3mm lug to lug and 13.4mm thickness) case leans on some common tool watch tricks such as pairing brushed surfaces on the case sides and lugs and with polished accents, while also including more unique touches to give it that characteristic Citizen vibe fans have come to expect from the 35 year old Promaster line. This includes little details such as a bracelet end link that dips down to expose vertical brushing on the case between the 20.2mm lugs, and less subtle design cues such as Citizen’s classic and slightly exaggerated coin edge bezel. 

Adding some elegance to this otherwise rugged design is a brushed 3 link bracelet that features a polished segment on the bottom of each individual outer and center link. The signed push button folding clasp is easy to operate, closes with a satisfying snap, and suits the overall aesthetic of the watch as a whole. For a watch that has every feature under the sun, I found myself wishing this included an on-fly-adjustable clasp, but otherwise had zero bracelet gripes. As a welcome surprise for someone that prefers nylon and rubber straps, after trying out various options of each on the Navihawk with visual success, I ultimately found myself preferring weighted balance provided by the bracelet.

It would be easy to assume that shrinking such a complicated watch by 8mm (yes, other Navihawks are a whopping 48 millimeters) would lead to a cramped dial, but that really isn’t the case. On day one I found myself occasionally distracted by miniature numbers on the chapter ring and words like “FUEL LBS” and “LITERS” on the rotating DLC coated bezel (the silver Navihawk has a steel bezel if that’s more your style). But after I accepted the fact that I wasn’t going to learn how to use the watch for its conversion capabilities as I had initially intended, those tiny letters and numbers just sort of blended together to create the maximalist aesthetic that is central to the signature look of the Navihawk.

Key to the Navihawk’s ability to avoid a chaotic feel below the crystal is its creative use of lines and texture. The three black subdials have raised concentric circles that pop against each of the three lightly colored dial variants. Each subdial features high-contrast white hands, while the main dial uses high polish luminescent sword shaped hour and minute hands that match the shine and glow of the hour indices. The thin and un-lumed red second hand ties in nicely with red accents on the chapter ring while staying otherwise unobtrusive on the full yet balanced dial. 

Adding to this balance is a careful use of symmetry with “WR 200” printed opposite the 4:30 date window. A natural fit for the polished elements and providing a complementary transition from these textured subdials, the sunburst dial seamlessly leads to all that technically usable (but mostly just cool looking) text on the dial’s perimeter.  All of this functionality is easily operated with a signed and knurled crown and polished pushers and is powered by Citizen’s proprietary B620 solar powered Eco-Drive movement that is accurate to a respectable15 seconds per month and will happily tick away for at least six months on a full charge.

Final Thoughts

Something I continuously challenge myself to do with varying degrees of success is to look past the name on a dial and accept a watch for what it is without preconceived notions. In this thought experiment, the now enthusiast sized (if there even in such a thing) Navihawk is an expertly finished tool watch with a distinct aesthetic, a widely accurate in house movement that never requires a battery change, and so many complications it needs a 40 page manual. Looking past connotations and biases of how much bang for buck a huge brand like Citizen should offer, there is an argument to be made that this could easily be a watch that retails in the low four figures, or is at least comparable in quality to some watches that sit at the price point.

Yes, the maximalist design is a bit aggressive and inherently busy due to all the functionality crammed into a 40mm package. But with a well-organized and overall balanced layout, the full dial is part of the charm that distinguishes the Navihawk from your average pilot’s watch. And with other watches that share a similar aesthetic either being phased out such as Seiko’s Flighmaster or cost prohibitive for many such as Breightling’s Navitmer, the $595 Navihawk fills a gap in the current market with an unrivaled combination of value and capability. Citizen