Author A.A. Milne wrote in Winnie the Pooh, “When you see someone putting on his big boots, you can be pretty sure that an adventure is going to happen.” I’m of the opinion that one should always be prepared for a little adventure, and thereby a believer in a good pair of boots, just in case. 

I can definitively say that shoes are not one of my many vices. If I’m leaving the house, there are two options I will wear 90% of the time: white Nike Air Force Ones, or a pair of leather Chelsea boots. I opt for the latter during the seven-month-long snow season we get in Colorado. Chelsea boots have been my staple since I can remember, as they’re versatile and easy to slip on as I’m running out the door. When I find something I like, I stick with it, only replacing something when necessary and never straying too far from what I know. It was a big deal then, when I swapped my Embury Leather Casual Dr. Martens Chelsea boots for a pair of Blundstone Classic 587s last March. 

Dr. Martens were my brand of choice for six years. The same pair of Chelsea boots guided me through the streets of Paris in 2018 and a solo trip to Ireland four years later. My Blundstones are coming up on their first birthday this March, and have traipsed through dirt and debris along Route 66 as well as seven states and a handful of National Parks. Both brands have a lot to offer in terms of heritage, specs, and fit, and both deserve consideration in one’s quest for the perfect Chelsea boot.

Brand Overview

A mid-century collaboration of English sensibility and German innovation, Dr. Martens has deep roots in the counterculture movement of the Cold War. Docs were the shoe of choice for anti-establishment youth and hardcore metal musicians during the tumultuous governmental strife plaguing the 1970s and 80s. The rise of grunge in the 90s and the influence of festival culture continued to cement Docs in their “stick it to the man” reputation. Dr. Martens became a symbol of punk – embodying defiance, individuality, and nonconformity.

Blundstone has its origins in the rugged outback of Tasmania, Australia. The brand honed its craft during the First World War, when they became one of the primary suppliers of boots to Australian troops. They ramped up production in the Second World War, supplying half a million pairs to the Australian army – many of whom were deployed to the Pacific theater where the conditions were intense and quality gear thinly separated life and death. Their image as an adventure outfitter was solidified in the 1970s when Blundstone boots accompanied an Australian expedition party to Mount Everest.

Design & Aesthetic

While both pairs of Chelsea boots feature black leather, there are a few defining differences in the aesthetic of each brand. Docs are recognized by their distinctive, chunky sole, and a prominent rounded toe. They are also known for their traditional yellow stitching and the single pull tab at the back of the heel with their trademark “bouncing soles” branding on the tag. The outsole is crafted from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which offers a lower cost than the alternative found on Blundstones, but it’s less durable overall. And the tread pattern on Docs is much more aggressive than their Australian counterpart, giving them the edgy look for which Dr. Martens is well known.

When it comes to personalizing your look, Dr. Martens takes the cake. They offer a wide variety of leather types, from smooth and classic to vegan and textured options, allowing for a personalized feel. They also provide an extensive range of color choices, from bold, eye-catching hues, like white and cherry red, to timeless blacks and browns, giving wearers the ability to express their unique style. Though my black Chelsea boots can fit into a wide array of settings, they’re at home in urban environments.

Blundstones typically feature a more streamlined design with a focus on practicality. The brand is known for its use of premium leather (though they also have vegan options), mostly in earthy tones like brown, black, and tan. Many of their boots feature a wider opening than Dr. Martens and can be recognized by their double pull tabs at both the front and the back of the shoe. The outsole is thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), which is characterized by its resistance to abrasion.

The Blundstone Classic 587s offer the brand’s most relaxed fit and require no break-in period. They also sit a smidge lower than the Docs. While the Blundstones end right at the top of my ankle, the Docs continue up about a centimeter. It’s not a huge difference in the scheme of things, but it could be the deciding factor between both boots if one likes to cuff their pants at a certain length. 

Blundstones are designed to show patina much faster than Docs. As with watches, the world of boots is another that loves its patina. As one wears a pair of boots, the nature of the leather changes to reflect the conditions and environments they’ve endured. Within two months of ownership (and, albeit, a lot of New Mexico dust) a friend questioned me when I told her my Blundstones were made of black leather, saying she was certain they were gray. For those apt to care for their boots by frequently polishing them, they will maintain their original quality of color much longer. I haven’t yet developed the patience for that, and prefer the look of boots that have been beaten to hell. To each their own. Blundstones feature a no-nonsense, utilitarian look that appeals to those who value simplicity and durability.

Though each brand offers both lace-up and Chelsea styles, Dr. Martens can be viewed as the stronger lace-up option while Blundstone finds their groove amongst the laceless.

Fit & Sizing

Dr. Martens are known for their often necessary break-in period, though this can be mitigated depending on one’s choice of material. In my experience, the black ambassador or Wyoming leather and the crazy horse brown leather tend to be very supple and did not require me to break them in more than a week. I’ve heard horror stories about some Docs though, so take that advice with a grain of salt. But my personal experience hasn’t been bad. By contrast, most Blundstones are known for their comfort right out of the box.

The Docs have much tighter ankle support than Blundstones and I actually prefer this when hiking on loose gravel. I know Blundstone tends to be heralded as the GADA boot, but I will only opt for Blundstone boots for hikes if I know I will be walking on dirt. The wider mouth on the Blundstones can easily lead to a rolled ankle in the wrong type of terrain.

While the classic 1460 lace-up Docs can run a tad large, the Dr. Martens Chelsea runs pretty true to size. Those with wider feet may want to consider sizing up to account for the fact that Docs can run on the narrow side. The tighter opening can limit the thickness of socks that can be worn, as it’s a much snugger fit than the Blundstones. My Docs are a U.S. men’s 8.

The Blundstone Classic 587s allow me to wear my thickest pair of wool socks during the winter with a double layer for good measure. It’s important to note they are much trickier to size than the Docs (for this American, at least), as the website goes off of Australian measurements. Mine are an AU size 7, which equates to a 41 EU or a U.S. men’s 8.

One of the largest differences between Doc Martens and Blundstone is the cost. The Embury leather Chelsea boots from Dr. Martens sell for $130. The Blundstone Classic 587s in rustic black are listed at $199.95.

Conclusion

Truly, both the Dr. Martens Embury leather and the rustic black Blundstone Classic 587 are great options to consider, depending on someone’s tastes and expectations of a good Chelsea boot. Though I still enjoy my Docs from time to time, I’m firmly in the Blundstone camp now. There are a few reasons for this, but the top two come down to my wearing habits and preferences, and my shifting aesthetic priorities.

I walk with slight supination, which means the bulk of my weight tends to be on the outside of my feet (as opposed to pronation, which is an inward rolling of the foot). It’s not noticeable in my day to day life, but as a boot monogamist, it becomes evident over long-term use of one pair of shoes. I’ve found the PVC outsole on the Docs wears down far more unevenly than the harder TPU of the Blundstones. 

Even so, the majority of my decision to change sides came down to brand image. Simply put, my late twenties has ushered in a new era of fashion for me and shifted how I present myself to the world. I’m a little less punk. A little more park ranger. Blundstones represented my embrace of the outdoors and a move away from street fashion and an urban-oriented lifestyle. The price jump of $70 was a barrier to entry for a few months while I debated making the switch. However, almost one year and many miles later, I can say it was the right step for me.