For H. Moser’s first release of 2025, they’ve added a new reference to the Pioneer collection in the still somewhat new 40mm case. I’ve been a fan of the Pioneer for what it represents in the Moser catalog for some time. Moser is a very high end indie that is responsible for a lot of truly interesting and innovative watchmaking, but the Pioneer has existed as a (somewhat) accessible access point to the brand that gives you a lot of Moser style, and, frankly, a good chunk of the watchmaking that makes the brand special. I reviewed the “Mega-Cool” Pioneer all the way back in 2021, and came away impressed with the aesthetic even if I felt like the case perhaps a tad too big. The new, smaller, 40mm case is Moser’s answer to many of their clients who were asking for this watch in a smaller size, and while there is indeed a 40mm Pioneer on the accessible side, here Moser is using the platform for a watchmaking flex.
The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a new 40mm Pioneer running on Moser’s HMC 805 automatic caliber with a deep burgundy dial and a red gold case. Red gold and burgundy certainly feel like a natural combination, and the watch seems to exude a warmth that makes it particularly appealing in these dark winter months (although, to be fair, this watch has a place on the beach as well).
If you only know the Pioneer in its 43mm guise, you really owe it to yourself to get the 40mm version on your wrist. It wears completely differently and changes the impact of the watch entirely. While the 43mm case is by its nature a somewhat ostentatious statement piece (it wears big and looks big) the 40mm is a true everyday size and doesn’t really sacrifice any of the brash, contemporary design language Moser is known for.
The burgundy dial is executed in Moser’s signature fumé style, getting darker as it approaches the outer edges of the dial until it becomes an inky black. Dial accents (hands and applied markers) in red gold to match the case, and of course the flying tourbillon is visible through an aperture at the 6:00 position.
The HMC 805 is an automatic movement with a three day power reserve and Moser’s in-house made double hairspring. Plates are finished in anthracite and the caliber features skeletonized bridges and a skeletonized winding rotor (also in red gold). It’s an update of the HMC 804 tourbillon caliber that Moser has used in Pioneers going back several years, with most of the updates related to finishing: wider openings in the skeletonization, the aforementioned anthracite finish, and more dramatic bevels on the winding rotor in the name of being able to see more of the mechanism.
The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is not a revolutionary new release for Moser, but a smart extension of the Pioneer lineup, and sees Moser continue down the aesthetic path they’ve been on these last few years. You’ll notice (or, not notice) the minimal branding here, with the brand’s wordmark subtly etched into the dial and not featured as prominently as it was on Moser’s of a prior generation. The 40mm Pioneer really lends itself this type of clean and elegant design, with or without a tourbillon.
The retail price for the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is $65,900. H. Moser
