It’s not often that whimsy and tradition become bedfellows, even in the wild world of watches. Time-honored brands with industry gravitas rarely join forces with quirky start-ups, and on the odd occasion when they do, the results can be divisive for traditionalists and experimentalists alike, who squabble over value, style, and reputation without stopping to admire the unique product that results from such collaborations.

This is why the announcement of Fears and Studio Underd0g’s limited edition collaboration for British Watchmakers’ Day packed such an immediate punch for me, and likely will for anyone else familiar with the two brands. The unique 178-year history of Fears, resurrected in 2016 by managing director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, combined with the brash innovation of Studio Underd0g, launched by founder Richard Benc in 2021, has resulted in a limited edition watch that flaunts the design ethos of both brands in such force that it’s unmistakably a shared effort at first glance. 

The Fears x Studio Underd0g Gimlet draws attention immediately with a snappy lime dial (a nod to the watch’s tasty namesake beverage) and a cushion-shaped 38mm case inspired by the Fears Brunswick. Round edges and curves give the case a vintage feel, as does the beautiful typography—another signature Fears touch. But don’t be fooled into thinking that this is just another variant of the Brunswick; in addition to the lime dial, Studio Underd0g’s penchant for elegant dazzle is made immediately clear through the numerals and indices floating above the dial, their shadows moving with the sun in daylight, a cue borrowed from the company’s 02Series line of colorful field watches. Daylight doesn’t get all the fun, though, as the Gimlet also sports a seven-layer Super-LumiNova base on top of the 1mm thick sapphire disc that forms the base of the dial, which backlights the printing details and makes them appear ethereal and disconnected in darkness. One last Underd0g easter egg can be found in the two screws that adorn the dial—another hallmark of the 02Series design, lent neatly to the Gimlet.

At this point, you may be wondering why this particular collaboration is so special—after all, both Fears and Studio Underd0g are brands not new to special editions and collab projects. But the Gimlet’s limited release, coinciding with the British Watchmakers’ Day event on March 8th, 2025, is more than a simple teaming up of brands; it’s a meaningful marriage of playfulness and heritage that is uniquely representative of the youthful innovation seen in British watchmaking today. Benc of Studio Underd0g and Bowman-Scargill of Fears forged the design of the Gimlet over years of friendship, creating a piece that pushed creative boundaries, but wore its origin as a British watch close to its heart. 

Another British company, The Strap Tailor, provides the handsome Swift Calfskin strap in Vert Marquis—a dark green that is a lovely complement to the brighter lime of the dial. The strap measures 20mm at the lugs and tapers to 16mm, with quick-release spring bars and a co-signed stainless steel buckle. Final details include a screw-down case back, an onion crown, and a sapphire crystal. The Gimlet is powered by the manually wound Sellita SW210-1 movement with hacking seconds and a 42-hour power reserve. As a bonus, the brands have partnered with Horologium to provide a limited two-year warranty for the watch. 

History and innovation aside, I believe the Gimlet’s strongest asset is its ability to effortlessly exude the distinctive characteristics of both Fears and Studio Underd0g as brands. It’s a piece that is daring in design—the lime dial and floating numerals alone make it a fun conversation starter—without sacrificing elegance and subtlety. And though it’s limited to 200 pieces and available exclusively at the British Watchmakers’ Day event, I have a feeling that the Gimlet will be emblematic of this new wave of British horological excellence for many years to come. 

The Fears x Studio Underd0g Gimlet will be available exclusively at the British Watchmakers’ Day event at Lindley Hall in London, UK on March 8th, 2025, with a retail price of £1,000. Studio Underd0g x Fears