Review: The Ressence Type 9

Date: 2025-01-13
Shared By: Val
Reference: Worn & Wound

Last year, when Ressence announced the Type 8, it was met with great excitement and surprise by their fans, including yours truly. A simpler and less expensive Ressence wasn’t something that seemed on the horizon. The watch was a stripped-down take on the seemingly magical Ressence display, reduced to hours and minutes. A lack of numerals, matched with an expansive, heavily domed dial, gave the Type 8 a different mood from Ressence’s other watches. Rather than leaning toward the technical, they felt meditative, which is perhaps to say, they felt less about the engineering and more about the resulting experience. I shared my thoughts in a review you can read here.

A year and a half or so later, Ressence has dropped one of the biggest surprises of 2024: a follow-up to the Type 8, which is logically called the Type 9. This wasn’t at a big event like Geneva Watch Days or Watches and Wonders but rather a random week in December, making it even more unexpected. Adding to the shock, it’s another departure from the Ressence norm, featuring their most compact case, and yet continuing the simpler hours and minutes only dial. However, where the Type 8 felt like a radical change, the Type 9 feels more like a spin-off. It’s not a new story but a subplot or side quest. Perhaps, even an alternate take on the Type 8.

Case

Typically, with Ressence, the dial is the star of the show, but for the Type 9, it’s the case. The dial is special, too, but it feels like a variation on the Type 8, not something completely new. Measuring 39mm x 42.5mm x 11mm, the elevator pitch is that it’s 2.5mm smaller in diameter than the brand’s next smallest case, the Type 12, which is a square, so it wears larger regardless. Additionally, the Type 9 is the first to feature an external minute index. This requires a wider and, frankly, more traditional bezel, which reduces dial real estate, visually compressing it. The result, plainly, is a lovely little Ressence.

But it’s not the size alone that makes the case appealing. Made from grade 5 titanium, it has smooth lines, giving it the feeling of a polished stone, which speaks to the ergonomic ethos behind some of their larger models like the Type 1 (the product page of which literally says “polished stone”). While being rounded unto itself is not unique, the specific geometry here is, as it has to incorporate Ressence’s signature domed dial. As such, the topside of the case is a continuous line from the bezel across the domed sapphire. The bezel kinks in ever so slightly before hitting a seam that transitions into the mid-case, which is fully polished and has a generous radius along the watch’s side. It then swoops below, connecting with the domed case back, which doubles as the crown.

Another uncommon feature of the Type 9 is the nearly-traditional lugs with 20mm span. They are small, but unlike the flared, hooded lugs of the Type 8, they should allow for more strap options. Further, straps with curved ends would fit well, and curved spring bars could allow for the use of pass-through straps. One of the unexpected joys of the Type 9 is running your fingers along it, feeling its flowing lines. You want just to hold it in the palm of your hand. This is not a great idea, however, unless you enjoy fingerprints.

From the original press photographs, I misinterpreted how the bezel was constructed. I imagined a dark gray brushed insert was set into the bezel to create the minutes index. In reality, there is no insert; rather, the bezel is brushed, engraved, and lume-filled. The result is lower in contrast than the press photos made it seem, though it doesn’t cause issues with legibility. If anything, it makes the case look more like a solid piece of titanium while giving it an athletic feel that makes it stand out in the brand’s catalog.

As with other Ressence models save the very first, there is no crown in the traditional sense; rather, the case back itself is used to set and even wind the watch. The greatest benefit is that the case has no protrusions, allowing it to be ambidextrous and emphasizing its lines. Furthermore, it makes the case look and feel just a touch smaller, especially when worn. The downside is that it’s more of a pain to set, especially if you have to cycle through many hours, and it seems to lead to a rather measly 1 ATM of water resistance, which Ressence refers to on their site as “splash resistant.” This belies the sportier look of the case, which is frustrating as it makes it less of a practical timepiece. Considering the five-figure price tag, I can’t help but feel a better solution is needed.

Dial

While the case might be the Type 9’s novel aspect, the signature rotating regulator dial is likely what attracts people to Ressence. For those unfamiliar with how they work, they are built on the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). This proprietary design utilizes a series of nested, curved, constantly rotating disks to tell the time. The dial is essentially a large domed surface that rotates once per hour, allowing an engraved pointer to indicate the minutes.

Within this surface is another domed surface that makes one revolution every twelve hours, thus indicating the hour, which is read via a surround index ring. The hours disk and rings are thus orbiting the center of the dial, following the motion of the minutes disk. The tricky bit is that they stay correctly justified so that twelve is always up. It’s a remarkable bit of engineering that seems effortless when on your wrist, and while it certainly can draw some oohs and aahs, it also has a very practical result: the hands never cross.

For the Type 9, the visual design of the dial is very similar to that of the Type 8, with predominantly media-blasted surfaces and a satin sheen that verges on matte. As seen on the sample, it’s a light and slightly warm gray. The satin finish is appealing, giving the surface a slight sparkle. The hour index ring is radially brushed metal that is close in tone to the titanium case. The contrast adds to overall legibility. Additionally, the index features large three and nine numerals, which are easily found at a glance. This is important as they constantly move around the dial. As with the bezel, the numerals play into an overall sportier aesthetic.

While part of the case, the marks of the bezel are utilized as the minutes index, thus playing into the dial design. As said before, the texture of the bezel provides contrast for legibility. There are small lines with rounded ends at five-minute intervals, with a circle marking 0/60. While I find the external bezel a nice aesthetic change, I wish it was fully indexed. Admittedly, it might have gotten a bit cramped or visually overwhelming, but, and perhaps this is a personal issue (ok, it is), I prefer not to estimate the minute. It’s actually a bit odd that the minimal, pensive Type 8 is fully indexed, whereas the seemingly more practical Type 9 is not. Speaking of, all of the markers, as well as the hour and minute pointers, are lume-filled and glow bright blue, clearly adding to the usefulness of the design.

Movement

The Type 9 is powered by the ROCS 9 module built on an ETA 2892 automatic base, which has been heavily modified from its original form, driving the module off the minute axle. It features 31 jewels, 20 gears, 36 hours of power reserve, and a frequency of 28,800 bph. The 2892 is a logical platform to build off as it is quite thin, has been in production for a long time, is trusted, and is serviceable, though due to the module, you’d almost certainly have to send the watch back to Ressence.

There is no description of what makes the ROCS 9 different from the ROCS 8 that powered the Type 8, so it’s hard to say why it has its own designation. Perhaps it is smaller per the case, or the dial elements are included in the number.

Wearability

The Type 9 gray comes mounted to a 20mm two-piece strap with a silvery-gray synthetic woven exterior wrapped around some padding and has a leather lining. It tapers two millimeters to 18mm and features a titanium buckle. I am not a huge fan of this strap. The fabric is a bit rough, the padding is stiff and thick, and the taper is too small, making the strap feel very straight compared to the lines of the case. It also leans into the sporty feeling of the watch, which isn’t necessarily real. The color works, but otherwise, it’s just a miss for me. That said, given the lugs, it’s easy to change. The Type 9 kind of begs for a thin, tapered mesh bracelet with a fitted end link.

Regardless, the Type 9 wears exceptionally well. The case proportions are ideal for the design. It’s small enough to be very comfortable and discreet yet large enough to allow the unique dial display to shine. The 11mm thickness is deceiving as the watch wears and feels much thinner. That number is from the apex of the domes on either side of the watch, so the majority of the case is quite thinner. As it’s curved all around, it’s hard to get exact measurements, but at the point where the crystal and bezel meet, for example, it’s about 6.5mm.

An issue I had with the Type 8 was that it felt like it was hovering above my wrist. That was partially because of the stiffness of the strap, but the shape of the case also played a factor. It was more of a helmet with a lower mid-line emphasizing the dome’s height. This is not the situation with the Type 9, as it’s pebble-shaped, with a more centered mid-line. The result is that the case back sits in the wrist, pulling the apex of the crystal closer, essentially making it feel flatter.

A feature I have yet to mention is the weight of the Type 9, a mere 39 grams, including the strap. That is remarkably light. At first, it was a bit off-putting, and I say this as a big fan of titanium, a metal I like specifically for its lightweight properties. The issue, initially, was a matter of perception of quality. The lack of weight made it feel unsubstantial, hollow, and unlike a five-figure watch.

Furthermore, the stiffness of the strap fought against the weight, making it not sit right at first. I had the same issues with the Type 8, which was 42 grams. It’s psychological and a matter of taste. Once I grew used to it, the fact that I forgot I was wearing it (I once got scared it fell off) made it click: this is what I want from titanium. It’s an ergonomic decision and not reflective of quality, but ultimately, you like it or you don’t. That said, given how small the watch is, I doubt it would have been too heavy if made of steel.

While no Ressence will ever look like a traditional wristwatch, the Type 9 appears less alien than others. Its size, bezel, and lugs, in particular, make it more normal, which in turn makes it more discreet and versatile. As such, I think it’s the perfect option for people who like the Ressence concept but are hesitant because of its unique look; these strike a balance. And, of course, for those who simply want a smaller option.

Conclusion

The Type 9 is clearly a winner for Ressence. It combines much of what made the Type 8 an exciting release with an easier-to-wear and perhaps more palatable design. It’s also simply attractive with a sci-fi, Ross Lovegrove-esque flair that is uncommon in today’s vintage-fueled market. Most of my main critiques are very subjective. The strap wasn’t to my liking, the weight belies its quality, and the bezel lacks marks for each minute. The strap is easy to remedy, and the weight is a perception issue, not a real one. The minute marks affect the watch’s readability, which opposes the design’s more practical elements but is also a matter of taste. This is hardly the only watch without them.

The bigger concern is the 1ATM, or splash-resistant, rating. It’s hard to say what that means, but it doesn’t inspire confidence. Can you get caught in a downpour? Will the watch be ok if you suddenly need to run your arm under a faucet? If you forget it’s on and jump in a pool, did you just make an expensive mistake? At this point, I feel like minimum water resistance is 30m for a dress watch, 50m for something casual, and 100m+ for anything with sporty intentions. But, to be fair, this isn’t isolated to the Type 9; it’s the same for all Ressences except the Type 5, which is a dive watch. If this is an issue caused by the rotating case-back, I wonder if it’s worth the sacrifice.

One more concern, which is purely conceptual, is the Type 9’s positioning within the Ressence catalog. While the cases are wildly different, the dials of the Type 8 and 9 are very similar, making them feel more like variations on a “Type,” like the Type 1 round and square, than distinct models. Not only are they just minutes and hours, but they also have the same satin finish. While running seconds or some other function would have distinguished them further, it would have likely raised the price (which I will get to). So, at least visually, a different dial finish could have done the trick. To that end, I’d love to see the classic flat or radial brushing from the Type 1s on the Type 9. Of course, nothing is saying we won’t in the future.

The Type 9 not only earned the badge of being the smallest Ressence, but it also took the title of being the least expensive. At 12,500 CHF, it’s 1,000 CHF less than the Type 8. In USD, that becomes $14,900 (based on one retailer’s pricing). So, it’s still expensive, but hey, it’s less than other models. That said, I think the sizing and styling of the Type 9, plus the “entry” price, will make it a very popular model. After my time with the Type 8, I concluded that I’d still go with the Type 1 if I were in the market for a Ressence. But with the Type 9, I’m not so sure. Ressence

$14900