Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least.
Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements.
For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layout, which places the subdials at the 6, 9, and 12 positions. I say essentially 39mm, as the case is 39.5mm in diameter, while the bezel width is 39mm.
The case is almost entirely brushed, featuring beautifully polished chamfers on the lugs and a polished bezel ring. It measures just 11mm in thickness. I understand the frustration when thickness measurements do not include the crystal, but in this case, the crystal is a notable element and deserves its own specification. The dial is covered by 4.25mm of sapphire crystal, which includes a generous amount of anti-reflective coating. Interestingly, the display case back also features an anti-reflective coating, which is quite rare and a nice touch.
Three multi-level sunburst dial colors are available, each featuring a black date wheel that displays the date at 6 o’clock. This design choice is an excellent alternative to the typical stark white version, as the black complements all three dial options beautifully. The available colors are anthracite, silver, and blue. Each dial includes applied markers and Brellum logo, along with the customary exquisite diamond-cut hands. All dial components are also equipped with SuperLuminova, ensuring excellent visibility in low-light conditions.
The new Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer is driven by the caliber BR-110 automatic chronograph movement. This movement is based on the Lajoux-Perret design and has a beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), features 26 jewels, and offers a power reserve of 60 hours. Decorations include perlage, cote-de-Geneve striping, blued screw, and a gorgeous gold-tone custom rotor. As a chronometer, it is certified to be accurate to +4/-6 seconds per day and comes with a certificate verifying its accuracy. All these features can be admired through the display case back, which is secured by six polished screws. This construction ensures the watch remains water-resistant up to 100 meters.
The Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer is limited to 46 pieces for each dial color. Each watch will come with a black handmade veal leather strap and deployant buckle, as well as a classic 5-link stainless steel bracelet featuring a deployant clasp. This limited edition will be launched on November 15th, priced at $3,650. Brellum
