There was a time not too long ago when the new watches that Seiko debuted this week would have broken the internet. The new SPB481, SPB483 and SPB485 are, plain and simple, some of the strangest releases we’ve seen from Seiko in quite some time. It used to be that even a middling release from the brand, particularly if it was in the sports watch category, would generate days worth of discussion and hype on Instagram, forums, and group chats where watches are discussed. But it’s been about three days since these were made public and not only are they not dominating the enthusiast conversation, they’ve been met with what I can only describe as a collective shrug.
You can see in these images why these watches are noteworthy. What we have here are a trio of Seiko divers in the Prospex collection with octagonal bezels in what appears to be an entirely new case design and a radical new bezel profile. The rounded octagonal bezel is matched to a 41.3mm case that comes in at 12.8mm tall and has lines that accentuate flowing curves at every angle. It feels very different for Seiko and kind of makes you see their core designs in a new way, most of which feature much harsher angles and severe geometry that these watches completely lack.
Three variants make up the new range. The SPB481 has a beige dial matched to a glossy black bezel insert, the SPB483 is a blue on blue design, and then there’s the SPB485, which to my eye is the most striking of the group, featuring a brown dial and copper colored bezel insert with a brushed finish. All three dials share a wave pattern (also new for this series, though in line with textures and patterns from previous releases) and generously lumed hands and applied markers. They run on the 6R55 caliber and are water resistant to 300 meters.
I’m not going to lie: these watches have triggered something in my brain. I’m very curious to see them in person, but I have to admit that in photos I don’t find them particularly appealing. I’m happy to be proven wrong, but they remind me a great deal of a particular strain of watch modding that was popular several years ago that saw modders making “mash ups” of Seikos with popular (and expensive) luxury sports watch designs. You’ve surely seen them if you’ve been around the enthusiast community long enough – these are watches with Seiko guts and genuine Seiko cases, but with aftermarket (some would say just plain fake) Royal Oak or Nautilus bezels and accents.
This type of modding always struck me as kind of unseemly. It seemed to me to go against the very principle of modding, which is to make something unique and tailored to your own personality and taste. What does it say about you if you choose to slap counterfeit Royal Oak parts on your modded Seiko? There’s skill involved in putting it together, sure, but the idea behind it always felt pretty lazy.
These new watches, obviously, are not mods. They are genuine Seiko Prospex dive watches that unfortunately remind me in an eerie way of something I never quite liked. Even if my initial reaction is less than positive, I have to hand it to Seiko for coming up with something genuinely unexpected. Did you have an octagonal bezel Seiko diver on your 2024 new release bingo card? I’m guessing that’s a “no” for most of you.
The SPB481, SPB483 and SPB485 share a retail price of EUR 1,200 (no pricing in USD yet, or even any indication these will be officially released stateside). They’re expected to be available in December. Seiko
