The latest release from Louis Erard expands their Excellence Petite Seconde range, and includes another release in that collection’s 39mm case size. Louis Erard has really become a collector favorite over the last few years with their many collaborative limited editions and (relatively) affordable ways to buy into design codes that traditionally represent true high luxury watchmaking, and they’ve done it mostly on the back of a 42mm case. It’s always notable when we see them release something new in their easier to wear 39mm case size, and with the Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloche (in two sizes) we also have a watch that’s really playing into that high luxury aesthetic with an unusually complex dial.
These watches are really a celebration of guilloche itself, and seek to present the decorative technique in a more classical way than something like the brand’s much more contemporary guilloche LE from a few years ago. The larger 42mm watch features gray and black tones, while the smaller 39mm watch features a rich blue and gray for contrast.
The dials are made in four parts, and highlight contrasting guilloche patterns. The central section has a traditional wave-like pattern that is meant to cast light directly from the dial’s center. An outer section, where you’ll find the hour track, features what’s known as a “panier” motif, which has the appearance of slightly staggered scales. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds subdial at the 6:00 position, but in a darker tone for added contrast. An outboard minute track that is free of guilloche decoration, and a similar scale around the small seconds subdial, serve to highlight the contrasts between the distinct guilloche executions found on the dial, and underscore the complexity of the dial’s construction, which takes place on multiple layers and features multiple pieces.
Both watches run on the Sellita SW261-1 caliber, an automatic movement with 38 hours of power reserve. Cases, as mentioned, are either 42mm or 39mm in diameter, with the larger measuring 12.82mm tall and the smaller 12.25. These cases are fully polished and read as dress watches in most contexts, but because of the size of the larger case I think it can naturally play a bit more casually. For both variants the guilloche execution is not exactly subtle, with high contrast dials and multiple patterns and tones being used, so these watches fall more into “statement piece” territory than the “discreet dress watch” category, but of course your mileage may vary.
One of the most appealing things about these watches is the retail price, which is CHF 2,300 for either reference. While we can’t expect true engine turned guilloche for that price, these watches offer a ton of style and design at a price point where many brands are focusing on more purely sporty fare. More information at Louis Erard’s website here.
