Longines has been experiencing significant success in the enthusiast space since their pilot-style Spirit line of watches launched. Over the last few years, they have introduced 39mm variants and a GMT version called the Spirit Zulu Time. Zulu time is a military term that refers to Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). These timepieces, also known as GMT watches, can show a second time zone using a third hand and a 24-hour scale on the dial. In December 2023, Longines partnered with Hodinkee to produce a special version of the Zulu Time in grade 5 titanium, featuring a 39mm case and limited to only 500 pieces worldwide.
This special edition bore a striking resemblance to another brand’s popular GMT watch but was significantly thinner and much less slab-sided, which appealed to many collectors. As successful as that model was, Longines did step away from the original charm of the Spirit collection, leaving enthusiasts wanting a grade 5 Titanium GMT watch that was not a limited edition. They have heard the call and have just announced a new 39mm Spirit Zulu Time in this material, which fits right in with all the others in the lineup.
Why are we explicitly mentioning the titanium grade used in these watches? In wristwatches, there are generally two types of titanium used. Grade 2 and grade 5, and while they both have the key qualities that make the material special (they are both very light), there is a tangible difference. Grade 2 titanium is commercially pure titanium, which makes it slightly more corrosion-resistant. On the other hand, grade 5 titanium is an alloy containing 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. This alloy is more robust, durable, and, most notably for watches, more scratch-resistant. It is even more scratch-resistant than 316L stainless steel while being 45% lighter.
Unfortunately, grade 5 titanium is usually more expensive than grade 2 titanium because of its more complex manufacturing process. However, the additional cost is often justified in high-performance applications where strength and durability are crucial. This is why you will see some brands using grade 5 for specific parts that encounter hard surfaces while using grade 2 for parts that are primarily in contact with your wrist. This helps to keep costs down while taking advantage of scratch resistance where it is most needed. Longines did not cut corners; the watch and its bracelet are made of grade 5.
Besides its 39mm diameter, it is 13.5mm thick and has a lug-to-lug length of 46.8mm. This seems like a magical size on paper, but these watches have male end-links, adding a few millimeters across the wrist. While it should still fit most people very comfortably, it’s essential to keep this in mind, as it wears slightly larger than the 39mm would make you believe. It is also surprisingly lightweight, which may be unexpected for those unfamiliar with titanium watches. It weighs only 95g on its full-length bracelet, compared to 147g for its stainless steel counterpart. The difference makes it much more comfortable, as you can imagine.
The dial is sandblasted anthracite with gold-tone Arabic numerals matching the main hands. The GMT hand is painted black with a red tip arrow pointer, which matches the “ZULU TIME” text on the dial. There is also a generous amount of SuperLuminova coating on all these features for enhanced visibility in low-light conditions. The bidirectional rotating bezel, featuring a ceramic insert, is black and grey, allowing the wearer to time a third time zone by aligning it with the GMT hand. Powering the hands is an exclusive ETA caliber L844.4, made solely for Longines. It operates at an unconventional 25,200 vibrations per hour, is COSC chronometer-certified, and has a 72-hour power reserve and an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring.
The new Longines Spirit Zulu is secured to your wrist by a matching grade 5 titanium bracelet. It is 21mm between the lugs and tapers slightly to meet the double-security folding clasp featuring a twin-trigger opening mechanism. It also features a toolless removal system, making it easy and enjoyable to change straps. Thanks to its screw-down crown and case back, 100 meters of water resistance and peace of mind are provided, making this watch an ideal travel companion. Speaking of travel, you can even adjust the hour hand without stopping the timekeeping, as this is a proper traveler’s GMT watch.
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time in titanium is priced at $4,275. Longines
