While Grand Seiko’s history stretches back to the 1960s, the brand’s story in America is quite a bit more contemporary. Grand Seiko, for years, was a true hidden gem in the watch world, an insider’s secret that you had to be fairly deep into the hobby to stumble across in the days before the watch collecting “boom” that we’re still living through. It wasn’t until the Grand Seiko Corporation of America was formed in 2018 that the brand really put down roots in the United States. Obviously, from that point forward, Grand Seiko’s footprint has grown considerably, and we’re way, way past the point where anyone could credibly claim they’re an under the radar enthusiast’s secret. But for those of us who can remember a time well before their flagship NYC boutique, and before these watches were easily accessible anywhere in the states, their periodic US exclusive releases carry special significance.
The latest US exclusive limited editions, references SBGA507 and SBGA509, come at a time when Grand Seiko is experiencing enormous growth and success in the United States. These watches have been designed as a tribute to the very first US exclusive Grand Seiko releases, a trio of limited editions inspired by kirazuri, a traditional method used in Japanese woodblock printing that incorporates mica powder for a sparkling effect. Those limited editions have proven to be quite popular and collectible, so the release of the pair seen here should please collectors who may have missed out on the originals.
The inspiration for these new references, according to Grand Seiko, is the transitioning sky as seen from Lake Suwa. A blue/gray dial is reminiscent of daylight transitioning to the evening, and a dial rendered in a light shade of red conjures a morning scene. As is the case with all of the nature inspired Grand Seiko dials, the specific relationship a color or texture has to nature is almost incidental. The dials, if they work at all, are beautiful in their own right, and will transcend any specific connection to a time or place. If you’ve seen a kirazuri dial in person, you know that their depth and the way they play with light is quite special, and unique even in Grand Seiko’s large catalog of textured dials. Surely these new references will speak for themselves in a similar way.
That said, as US exclusives, they do have a special significance to the American market. Regional releases are a tool that brands sometimes deploy with too much frequency, but they can be valuable in the way they pay a certain respect to longtime customers of a brand or boutique. Exclusive releases tied to a specific part of the world are something of a hot topic that we’ve covered before, but regardless of whether you’re pro or con on the principle of this type of release strategy, there’s no doubt that it gets people talking and thinking about a brand’s place in the region in question. If you’re Grand Seiko, I imagine having the watch world reflect on the brand’s rising status in the US market is a good thing all around, even if the watches themselves might not be appealing, or might not be available at all if you’re outside the country.
In terms of specs, what we have here in both references is the familiar 44GS case design that comes in at 40mm in diameter and 12.5mm tall. While all Grand Seiko case shapes have their supporters and detractors, I think it’s not the most controversial take to say that this one is perhaps the signature shape in the collection. It’s arguably the best at showing off the beautiful zaratsu polishing that Grand Seiko is so good at, and has a clear link back to some of the earliest Grand Seiko references.
The watches both run on the 9R65 Spring Drive caliber, which this year celebrates its 20th anniversary. Spring Drive, of course, uses a mechanical gear train and quartz regulation, and is the pride and joy of Grand Seiko’s engineering and watchmaking teams. It’s a truly special movement technology (you can find a lot more about how it works right here) capable of impressive accuracy. The 9R65 caliber as found in these watches will keep time to within 15 seconds per month.
The SBGA507 and SBGA509 are limited to 300 pieces each, and will only be available at Grand Seiko boutiques and certain authorized dealers in the United States. The retail price is $5,600. Grand Seiko
